RSPCA Norfolk West Branch

How to bond rabbits the RSPCA Norfolk West way...

Although it sometimes takes a little time and patience to pair up rabbits the effort is well worth it when you see how much happier rabbits are with a friend of their own kind.  However besides never rushing the process of pairing there are some rules which will make it safer and easier.

If you’re starting from scratch

The best option is to obtain a pair of ready bonded and neutered bunnies from a rescue /rehoming centre. This will save you stress and money which can then be well spent making sure you are giving your bunnies the best possible accommodation (see our article on looking after bunnies ,made easy).

If you are choosing your bunnies as kittens at about  9- 10 weeks old firstly read our article on “Obtaining your rabbits” and remember just about all rabbit kittens under 14 weeks of age will get on. However this is not the case when they reach sexual maturity and all pairings of any combination need to be neutered and the timing of this neutering is critical in same sex pairings if they are to remain together.

Opposite sexes - neuter the male at about 14 weeks, as soon as his testicles descend  and the female at 4-6 months.  Hopefully they need never be parted as this is definitely the bests long life pairing.

2 females can live together but need neutering by 6 months and may still occasionally squabble if upset by changes in the environment or other rabbits.

Males, although they can live together if neutered at 14-16 weeks ,or as soon as their testicles descend and before they show any aggression, this pairing is the most likely to be unstable.  They must never be split, even if one needs to go to the vets, as this could lead to serious fighting (territorial behaviour).  Also a change in dominance due to illness or a change of territory can lead to fighting and the bunnies will need splitting sometimes permanently.

Older Rabbits

If you have a single rabbit (of any age) all is not lost, in fact you are most likely, when pairing is complete, to appreciate why you should  keep rabbits as pairs.  Here are a few tips to help you get started.

If possible find someone - (maybe a good rabbit rescue centre) that has paired up rabbits before.  They can advise you if you become unsure at any stage of the pairing as to whether it is going the way it should and maybe help you actually with the pairing.

Make sure both (all rabbits) are neutered and preferably are of opposite sex (this is the only pairing we personally would opt for as same sex pairing can lead to serious injury or rejection later on in life. We never attempt to pair up rabbits of the same sex and frequently have to split such pairings when they come to us this way.).  Size of rabbit is not an issue.  Also make sure they have had a thorough health check as rabbits seem to know if another rabbit is ill and this could make accepting each other a problem. Rabbits are prey animals and in the wild a poorly bunny would be seen as a risk to be near.

Give the rabbits time to get to know each other through a mesh divide or cage for a couple of weeks. - You can change them over each time you change them so they can get use to each other smells.

Getting ready for the first introduction

ALWAYS MAKE SURE YOU HAVE NEUTRAL TERRITORY.  This also needs to be relative small so they cannot ignore the other rabbit by sitting at opposite ends of the run, bath or room.  

Make sure you do it when the vets are open.  Occasionally you get  small wounds which may need checking by a vet. (Out of hours callout fees are expensive and best avoided). Also you will be much more relaxed if you know you have a vet on hand round the corner.  Do not panic as  accidental injury is only very occasional and usually not very serious.  It is often accidental and rabbits will still go together.  This is the time to separate the rabbits and seek advice from someone who as done it before.

Always have a brush and water sprayer to hand. As these make separation easier.  Never put your hands straight down between them as rabbits often pull fur during pairing and may accidentally bite you in the heat of the moment.

Place the male rabbit first in the neutral space followed immediately by the female and observe.

What to look for

If you are lucky - with some rabbits it is love at first sight and they will groom each other straight away.  If this happens leave together but keep a watchful eye on them throughout the day.

In most cases it will take a little longer and in rare cases 5 or more weeks but the rabbits still end up happy.  In one case we had 2 bunnies that were very lively and slightly dominant that lived side by side through mesh from spring until September and then went straight together.  For rabbits spring is flirting and showing off time and September onwards tends to be when the hormones naturally drop and they live underground together.  In spring you will often see even paired bunnies chasing and flirting with each other - it is in their nature.

Start 5 - 10 minutes at a time - preferable a few times a day.  The rabbits will weigh each other up by running around each other to see what the other one does and whether  they  will chase them.  One will often try to mount the other to show Dominance.  It is usually the male that first tries to mount but will usually be the female that end up being dominant.  (What’s new!!)  If dominance is accepted one of them may groom the other and hopefully they may settle together.  Again grooming and sitting together is usually the time they can be left together under a watchful eye.

Sometimes after chasing or mounting they will sit slightly apart and groom themselves this can be an indication that they are likely to go together and are starting to accept the others presence.

Another sign of acceptance is often seen by one rabbit lowering its head before the other and waiting to be groomed.

Things to watch for and take into consideration

A certain amount of fur pulling is quite normal behaviour however if in doubt part rabbits and seek advice.  We often see customers rabbits to check if things are fine and usually it is.  If in doubt customers often bring the rabbits to us to check.  We find a strange environment, a car journey and the smell of other rabbits often helps finalises the bonding process.  As they say better the devil you know than the devil you don’t especially when you are a prey animal!!

Always part the rabbits if you think there is any signs of aggression being shown.  Ears back and growling and grunting are signs all is not well. If possible have 2 people present when pairing - one using the broom and the second to pick up. Use the brush to part and do not put you hands straight down as you could get bitten.  It may be safer to try your rabbit with another mate - Check that this is possible when you get a mate for you rabbit - We would rather try a different partnership than risk serious injury.

Remember if you have a close relationship with your rabbit (especially house rabbits) you may be seen as part of the group and this may affect pairing in the initial stages.  Your rabbit may pick up on the fact that you are nervous and think this is because of the other bunny.  You may need to distance yourself from both bunnies until pairing is complete.  This will not affect your relationship long term but removes any misunderstanding by your bunny and allows them to sort our dominance on a one to one basis.  Again it may be helpful if you know someone else who can help you or do the pairing for you.

Remember rabbits are prey animals and can quickly pick up on how you are feeling - Do not pair up when you are feeling angry or anxious or nervous -  you need to be relaxed.  Again  nervousness when pairing will be reduced if you know you have someone you can ask advice from.

We like many other organisations do not recommend pairing of guinea pigs and rabbits as the rabbit often unintentionally  bullies the guinea pig.  Rabbits naturally scrabble at each other and nip each other as part of their normal communication this can be quite frightening to a guinea pig as when he runs off the rabbit thinks he understands what he wanted.  Also their diet is totally different - remember rabbits need a high hay diet, guinea pigs need Vitamin C (fruit/veg diet)at all times and it is difficult to ensure both species are properly catered for. Rabbits also can be carriers of the bacteria “ Bordatella” - which can be fatal to guinea pigs.  Why risk it when a rabbit is happier with a rabbit!!!!

Louise and Alan Pitchford