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Norfolk West Branch
Charity No. 206572
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Rabbit Rescue and Rehoming
RSPCA Norfolk West Branch
RABBIT CARE

VACCINATIONS

Rabbits can be vaccinated against two diseases at present, myxomatosis and rabbit viral haemorrhagic disease (VHD).  The myxomatosis vaccine only lasts for 6-8 months and so we recommend twice yearly vaccinations.  The VHD vaccination lasts for a full year.  These two vaccines are not licensed to be administered together, and so a two-week gap between them is advised.  Anyone driving in Norfolk will know how prevalent myxomatosis is, and with biting insects and fleas carrying this disease, even indoor rabbits can catch it.  VHD kills rabbits so quickly that they can die in their own burrows, and so it is probably more common than we realise.  VHD can be carried in on footwear after a walk where infected rabbits have been, and is contagious to any pet rabbit.  The two visits offer a good opportunity to discuss many healthcare issues for your new pet with the vet.

WORMING

Rabbits rarely carry worms that cause problems, and routine worming is not necessary.

FLEAS AND OTHER INSECT PESTS  

It is important to treat any cats and dogs who live in the same household for fleas, as particularly if they hunt or go for walks, they may pick up rabbit fleas which can carry myxomatosis to your rabbit.  Mosquitoes and other flying insects may also spread myxomatosis.  Flea control products for cat and dogs and for rabbits are available here.  It is important not to use cat and dog products on rabbits, and vice versa, as these products can be harmful if used on the wrong species.  More common, however is the unpleasant and often tragic laying of fly eggs on rabbits.  These hatch out into maggots, which cause pain and injury and can be fatal if not spotted and treated promptly.  This condition is a life-threatening emergency and you should contact us at the first suspicion of a problem.  Prevention is by deterring flies by screening or using repellents (e.g. Xenex or Rearguard), and by supplying a high fibre diet (see notes on diet later) to avoid your rabbit having a soiled bottom due to dietary problems.

NEUTERING

Rabbits are social animals and do best in pairs or small groups, but they do breed like, well, rabbits, and non neutered single sex combinations will often fight.  Males and females are neutered from 3-4 months.  Anaesthetics are not quite as straightforward as in cats and dogs, so you should discuss the operation with your vet before deciding.  Female rabbits are also much more likely to die before their time from uterine tumours if they are not spayed.  They are also more attractive to flies, if not neutered.

INDOORS OR OUTDOORS

There are pros and cons for an outdoor bunny or a house rabbit, but wherever they spend their time they should have a secure, sheltered hutch, access to grass or hay all the time, a litter area, and regular exercise inside or outdoors.

LONG-HAIRED RABBITS

Angora or other “wool bearing” rabbits are very hard work to care for, and can suffer serious skin and fur problems, so are not advised as a good choice of rabbit breed as a pet.

PET INSURANCE

Pet insurance is available from a number of companies, including Pet Plan and Pet Protect.  This practice offers a 4-week free insurance cover note from Pet Plan, when giving young rabbits their first vaccination.  It is important to read the small print on any insurance policy, as many place restrictions on treatment for dental conditions.

DIET

A good diet is critical to the long-term health of your rabbit.  Poor diets lead to tooth problems, gut problems, and are the main cause of death in pet rabbits.  It is absolutely vital to give your rabbit constant access to hay, grass or dried grass, as this most closely matches the diet that rabbits have evolved to eat in the wild.  Rabbit mixes and pellets are much higher in carbohydrate and protein, and much lower in fibre, than their natural diet.  This can cause problems with diarrhoea or colic like conditions.  It is also the main reason that rabbits develop teeth problems, which require lifelong treatment, often involving repeated anaesthetics.  Adult rabbits are best fed on hay, grass and dried grass, with a regular supply of dark green leafy veg and only the very smallest amount of pelleted food, if at all.  If feeding any pelleted food, your rabbit should have a small amount offered for half an hour once or twice daily, with roughage available all the time.  

Rabbit mixes allow the rabbit to pick out his or her favourite ingredients, which are unfortunately not usually the healthiest bits.  You need to ensure that your rabbit leaves a clean bowl, therefore, if feeding these types of food.  Burgess Excel is a pelleted food designed to avoid this by combining the ingredients into identical pellets, so the rabbit has no choice but to eat a balanced meal, but it still does not contain enough fibre, and must be supplemented with lots of tasty hay or grass.


Sian Saunders BVSc MRCVS
Richard Saunders BSc BVSc MRCVS CBiol MIBiol CertZooMed
We are pleased to share our knowledge and experience with others in order to promote the care and welfare of rabbits, but if you suspect that your rabbit is unwell then you should seek qualified veterinary advice immediately.
RSPCA Norfolk West Branch © 2006 Registered Charity Number 206572